Kallitype Developers Comparison
5/13/2023
Yutaka Suzue
Introduction
There are many numerous developer recipes for Kallitype. And even some basic developers can result the variety of tonalities of black, sepia, reddish brown and so on. I took a chance to measure and compare several developers. I selected these five types:
- Bostick-Sullivan Black Developer
- Bostick-Sullivan Ammonium Citrate Developer
- Sodium Acetate Developer
- Sodium Citrate 20% Developer
- Classic Borax Developer
The purpose in conducting these comparisons is to better understand each developer’s unique characteristics, so I can refer to these results when choosing which one to use for future images. This exercise also provides valuable practice in making consistent prints.
Measurement and Comparison Process
Test Document
I’ve prepared this Black and White test photoshop document.
This document has my three favorite images, highlight and shadow contrast, gradations in circle and square and 51 steps wedge. These components can show the performance of those developers, and it is easy for me to read and understand the characters.
I understand that the print quality may vary due to various factors such as temperature, humidity, water quality or uneven brush stroke.
Synthesizer and Coating
Kallitype Synthesizer A – 10% Silver Nitrate
Kallitype Synthesizer B – 20% Ferric Oxalate
Kallitype Synthesizer A and B are mixed from powdered silver nitrate and ferric oxalate. I mixed them occasionally and have been using relatively fresh synthesizer (at most a few weeks ~ a month age).
Negative
I prepared a single digital negative image and used exact same negatives for all these developers. This is done purely for my convenience. I adjusted the curve based on the prints developed with Bostick-Sullivan Black Developer, so the curves are not optimized for each developer. Thus, this comparison shows the difference of the developer.
Exposure
All exposures are same and 3 minutes on my lightbox.
3 minutes seems to be a bit shorter for me so there is no much room to make a small adjustment. And the timing to stop the light may be severe. This is because it turned out that my light was too strong, and I reduced the LED bars and change the exposure time.
Development
I simply follow the develop and wash methods in PCNW.
- 8 min develop
- 5 min Wash with Citric Acid and running water
- 5 min EDTA
- 1 min Fix
- 2 min Hypo wash
- 20 min final was with running water
Developer Recipes
I referred Alternative Photographic Processes (by Christopher James) and Kallitype – the process and the history (by Dick Stevens)
Bostick Sullivan Black Developer
* Added 3g tartaric acid earlier
Sodium Acetate Developer
75g sodium acetate
3g tartaric acid
1 litter distilled water
Sodium Citrate Developer
200g sodium citrate
1 litter distilled water
Borax Developer
100g Borax
3g tartaric acid
1 litter distilled water
*Added 2g and 10g tartaric acid before printing with curve006
Building Curve
I started from my previous Kallitype curve (adjusted last November) with Bostick-Sullivan black developer. I made 5 prints for each developer and measure the stepwedge of the Bostick-Sullivan Black developer and adjust the curve again. Then I use this curve for next print for all developers and repeat this. Again, I’m pretty sure this won’t optimize for other 4 developers and it may not be good idea to share same adjustment for different developers, but it could show me that how other developer behaves for each curve change. And it also saved my time.
For now, I got two curves, curve-006, which was adjusted on last November and curve-007, which is newly adjusted. The curve-007 seems to be good for the black developer and Sodium Acetate developer. The curve-006 seems to be good for Sodium-Citrate and Ammonium Citrate. The results of Classic Borax are thinner and flatter with these curves and the current light strength. But it can show some interesting image and tone.
Here are two curves. The curve007 yields slightly darker.
Print Results
These are print results comparison for curve006 and curve007. All images are scanned by Epson V850 with VueScan (Neutral Color balance on 48bit RGB)
| Curve-006 | Curve-007 | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| Bostick-Sullivan Back Developer | ![]() raw-2023-05-10-006-Kallitype-BSBlackDev-Curve006-3min-AtHome.dng |
![]() raw-2023-05-12-001-Kallitype-BSBlackDev-Curve007-3min-AtHome.dng |
Image with Curve007 show the good step wedge however the color is a bit warmer than expeted. Probably this is because of the room tempature? 78.5F and 43%RH |
| Sodium Acetate | ![]() raw-2023-05-10-002-Kallitype-SodiumAcetate-Curve006-3min-AtHome.dng |
![]() raw-2023-05-12-002-Kallitype-SodiumAcetate-Curve007-3min-AtHome.dng |
I could consistently produce coolblack tone with this developer. Curve007 solved flatter mid to shadow area. The stepwedge measurement of 007 is very close but tiny steepness of highlight area gives some extra contrast. |
| Sodium Citrate | ![]() raw-2023-05-10-003-Kallitype-SodiumCitrate-Curve006-3min-AtHome.dng |
![]() raw-2023-05-13-001-Kallitype-SodiumCitrate-Curve007-3min-AtHome.dng |
Brighter Sepia Brown tone. Curve006 already show smooth hightlige and shadow but the mid tone seems to be foggy. Curve007 is too dark. |
| Bostick-Sullivan Ammonium Citrate | ![]() raw-2023-05-10-004-Kallitype-AmmoniumCitrate-Curve006-3min-AtHome.dng |
![]() raw-2023-05-13-002-Kallitype-AmmoniumCitrate-Curve007-3min-AtHome.dng |
I like this Rich Maroon Color but the tone was not consistent. Is it very sensitve for tempature or somehting wrong in my process? Curve006 is already darker but it still keep highlight. So this curve may be interesting to use for some images. Curve007 is too dark but the tone was changed from 006. Why?? |
| Borax | ![]() raw-2023-05-10-005-Kallitype-Borax-Curve006-3min-AtHome.dng |
![]() raw-2023-05-13-003-Kallitype-Borax-Curve007-3min-AtHome.dng |
Probably not perfect maxblack. And Borax developer itself is fragile and unstable. (It is easy to get cristalized and tone is changed unpredictablly at least to me) |
Here is the measurement of the step wedge.
The blue line is the target and the perfect steps. It means 50% produces 50% gray.
The yellow line is the measurement of the gray scale value which was normalized from 0 to 100% from each scanned print.
| Curve006 | Curve007 | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| Bostick-Sullivan Back Developer | Curve007 got very close to the target. | ||
| Sodium Acetate | Curve007 got very close to the target. Interestingly this is very similar to Bostick Sullivan Black Developer |
||
| Sodium Citrate | Curve006 is acceptable and only mid tone gives error. Highlight and the shadow is a bit darker but the slope look ok. | ||
| Bostick-Sullivan Ammonium Citrate | Both curves results a bit darker for entire tone range. There is a room to be adjusted but Curve006 may produce interesting image. | ||
| Borax | It is relatively lighter and give a steepslope at shadow. Using these curve is very challenging. However for now I may go with Curve 007. I expect relatively flatter image. |
| Developer and Curve | Contrasts |
|---|---|
| BostickSullivan Black Developer Curve-006 |
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| BostickSullivan Black Developer Curve-007 |
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| Sodium Acetate Curve-006 |
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| Sodium Acetate Curve-007 |
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| Sodium Citrate Curve-006 |
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| Sodium Citrate Curve-007 |
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| Ammonium Citrate Curve-006 |
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| Ammonium Citrate Curve-007 |
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| Borax Curve-006 |
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| Borax Curve-007 |
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| Developer and Curve | Gradations |
|---|---|
| BostickSullivan Black Developer Curve-006 |
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| BostickSullivan Black Developer Curve-007 |
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| Sodium Acetate Curve-006 |
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| Sodium Acetate Curve-007 |
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| Sodium Citrate Curve-006 |
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| Sodium Citrate Curve-007 |
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| Ammonium Citrate Curve-006 |
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| Ammonium Citrate Curve-007 |
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| Borax Curve-006 |
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| Borax Curve-007 |
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Problems and Learnings
Borax Crystallization
Borax developer crystalized quickly, and it is known that Tartaric Acid dissolve the crystals. I mixed it with 3g of Tartaric Acid to reduce the crystal. But the paper could not be washed well. Adding 2g more change the result a bit better. I added 10g more and the white part now could be washed properly. The tone is cooler as expected but the contrast seems to be lower. According to the Alternative Photographic Process, adding 15g to 20g of Tartaric Acid can dissolve the crystal.
Above test was done with this developer which crystalized once. I believe a fresh borax developer should have higher contrast.
| 3g Tartaric Acid | Added 2g more | Added 10g more |
|---|---|---|
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Dusts – too strong light
One day, I was unable to achieve a clear paper white during highlighting. Suspecting it might be due to washing, I replaced the water filter, increased the amount of tartaric acid, extended the washing time, and tried other adjustments, but nothing worked. At some point, I noticed an unusual amount of dust appeared as soon as I poured in the developer, which suggested the issue was related to exposure. To address this, I removed several UV LED tubes from my UV box and shortened the exposure time. Afterward, the paper white became clearer.
It turned out the problem was caused by my max black. I had to measure the max-black, though it’s still unclear why the issue started suddenly. As far as I can tell, I used the same synthesizer, lighting, and timing as before.
All of above tests were done using this new max black configuration.
| Exposed Strong Light – old max black config | Exposed Adjusted Light – new max black config |
|---|---|
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Conclusion
The curve-007 is good for Bostick Sullivan Black developer now. I also noticed Sodium Acetate developer behaves similarly to the black developer. Not only the print results but also the color changes during developing, washing and fixed. Probably the black developer is based on Sodium Acetate.
Sodium Citrate and Ammonium Citrate resulted different type of brown tone. I have not had a chance to optimize the curve for these developers yet. However, it was good to know the curve 006 can be used as the starting point.
Borax developer was challenging to me. It was a bit hard to control to get a contrast.
Next Steps
Adjust curves for Sodium Citrate and Ammonium Citrate
Find max black and the curve for Borax
Explore some more classic developer such as Rochelle Salt.
Appendix
My Lightbox
I used my light box that I build a few years ago. I picked up cheap woods, ¼ inch-thick 2’-by-4’ boards and a few long ¾inch-by-1inch in HomeDepot. The box size is 20”x30”x12” and the front door is 30”x6”.
Then I installed 8 2ft bars but now I use only 4 bars since the LED was too strong.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NT6189/.




































